Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue Kala Ghodha

In a city that never shuts up in an area that is at the epicenter of commerical and legal activity there is an oasis of peace ironically surrounded by armoured cars and many policemen. If you want to get in you need to ask the police if you can enter then you need to go through one other security measures.

I was lucky enough after a few failed attempts to be allowed into the Synagogue in Kala Ghodha. The Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue is situated in a bylane behind Rythem House. Its facade is as beautiful as any other building credited to David Sasoon. It is unique in every way from the other equally magnificiant but grey stone buildings for it is painted a pastel baby blue with its facade highlighted in sharp white. If you want to go there land up in Kala Ghodha you just can't miss it.

Once inside you climb up stairs and are transported into another world of sheer tranquility. Its unread how at peace you feel even though through one of the windows you look into a fashion house and the other some manically chaotic business. I would have loved a tour or even just to meet the rabbi and have a chat learn something about the faith I know the least about and more about the synagogue. But that was not to be someone who worked there cleaning the place escorted me in and hung around to make sure I would not nick anything.

The first thing I noticed about the synagogue's interiors was that she was a grand old lady who although did not look her age had been through better times. The ceilings were high, the dome exquisite and beautifully maintained as were the alters and the stained glass. But the Torahs had seen better days and the comfortable sofas were naked of their tapestry or had been refurbished very cheaply as the fabric bore the stamps of the manufacturer of the undergarment of the sofa.

None of it mattered as I sat down in a corner with the protector of the synagogue eyeing me very suspiciously! When he realised I was in meditation and logically I suppose came to the conclusion with a 5 month old baby in a sling I would not be able to steal a sofa or anything large so he left me for what I presume was a few minutes. The peace that overcame me was wonderful and I really did enjoy a few moments of clarity and a bit of bliss.

Now although visiting most religious places are free and this is something you can do for free, one should compensate for the spiritual gains one has attained so on leaving I popped some money into the charity boxes. I am ashamed to say I had very little change on me which I am sure was not enough to compensate for the tranquility I gained from it so I will have to go back soon to pop in more money into those boxes which will be a pleasure.

If you work with or are in anyway a supporter of the synagogue or a member of its congregation it would be lovely if you could convince the rabbi allow tours which are educational on the synagogue its history, the history of the Bagdadi and the Maratha Jewish people and in general something about Judaism as well.

Kala Ghodha: a discovery in of culture and art

If you find yourself in South Bombay and have some time to kill just head straight to the cultural hub of the city, Kala Ghodha. Whatever budget you have will do for an afternoon in Kala Ghodha having money is optional, unless your driving then you will have to pay for parking.

I can’t suggest a better place to start then the museum and its majestic grounds. A walk from the museum to the Jehangir Art Gallery is laden with street art and it’s called the Pavement Art Gallery. It is a place of great interest to me you never know when you will discover there and its an opportunity to invest in a maybe great artist. My mother swears that when she was a young girl this bearded man used to chat with her and ask her to buy his artworks there. I assure you if she did so today we would have sold his art work and I would be self publishing my own books if not own a publishing house! That artist today if the legendary MF Hussain!!!

If your walking through the Pavement Art Gallery you will end up at the Jehangir Art gallery and for those who like cutting edge art by the Museum Art gallery in the Max Muller Bhavan building. Great news to all those on a very low budget outing, its all free. If your hungry there are loads of stalls from time to time on the streets to grab a budget snack.

If your hungry and want a nice meal cross the street to find a wide range of restaurants ranging from Joss which has a good spread to the Bombay Blue franchise which is the epitome of reasonably priced food. There is a snacky place on the road and a Chinese place but I have never had the chance to try either. I am told that Chetna does decent vegetarian food but the fact that the bookstore behind it is a treasure trove of spiritual books and they have some other cute nic naks I can vouch for. The staff at Chetna bookstore is very educated on all the publications and if you have time to spare you can discuss a few spiritual and mythological topics with them who knows you may add to your knowledge from a chat, again great on a low budget as its free.

After lunch you may want to pop into Rhythm House and browse through CD’s, movies, magazines and nifty accessories. In the days before you could download movies and music of the internet it was a place swamped with college students. If the thought that when you were a teenager you had cassettes gets you feeling old and down cross the road and visit the Art Entrance, which in my opinion has a steady stream of really nice artists exhibits. Westside is next door and they are very proud of their new deli so peak in there for dinner ingredients if you have money to spare and do not mind tampons in close proximity to your food. As the tampons were in packets and obviously unused it did not bother me but if you’re a fussy about segregating sanitary wear from food heads up.

One of my favorite people watching places in Bombay is the trendy but way too healthy for a meal Kala Ghodha café. I do love to go there but it contradicts my if your going out forget your diet at home rule. If your lucky on the way to the Kala Ghodha café which is tucked in a by lane behind Rhythm House there you may be able to get permission of the dozen or so police officers hovering about to get a peak inside the beautiful synagogue. By now if for some reason if you have not had your fill of art there is a tiny gallery next to the Kala Ghodha café and if you walk back to the Museum and cross the road you will be assaulted by the Modern Art Museum.

A must visit for all foreign tourists is FabIndia which is a bit off the Kala Ghodha square. When I lived overseas I used to buy loads of things from my house and for my friends from there. Its three floors of clothes, house accessories and it also has a small organic section for a few select edibles.

If you just want to potter and chill out without OD’ing on culture you can grab lunch or coffee and go to the movies a few minute away form the Museum of Modern Art. A word to those who have never watched a movie in India it can be a slightly jarring experience. I am still not used to the fact that every single time I manage to engrossed in the film it shuts down abruptly, the lights will flicker on the screen flashes intermission and everyone will vanish to pee and eat.

So as you may have guessed in the next few weeks I will be sharing my adventures in Kala Ghodha with you.