Sunday 17 July 2011

Return to the 'Bay: The Rotten Apple of Mahalakshmi

Return to the 'Bay: The Rotten Apple of Mahalakshmi: "When you buy an Apple product you pay more and you know your paying for the sleekness and sexiness of the product in addition to the superio..."

The Rotten Apple of Mahalakshmi

When you buy an Apple product you pay more and you know your paying for the sleekness and sexiness of the product in addition to the superiority of the product your purchasing. What your led to believe when you join the elite Apple club is that you’re buying into a certain lifestyle. When you walk into an i-store anywhere in the world you are wowed and wooed by every single product.

I bought my laptop 2 years ago in Dubai and although I had my misgivings on coping with the Mac technology the cool dudes who sold me the computer were so confident and guaranteed every assistance that I bought my laptop on the spot. I just felt so comforted by the service I would always get and the fact that my Apple would never be infected with any worms and it was so very strong that it was impenetrable by any virus that I made a huge mistake and did not buy the warranty extension.

When I moved to Mumbai I never gave the Apple another throught as there were always so many computer dudes in India I was sure I would get better service if I ever needed it for my Apple In India. I was so very wrong. My biggest mistake was not sending the laptop to Dubai to get repaired when it got ill 3 weeks ago. The nearest i-store closest to my house in Mumbai is 45 mins away and is located in Mahalaxmi just off Breach Candy. It is one of the most inconvenient places to go to as it’s the hub of the most persistent traffic and is also area with no parking.

The worst part about having one's laptop repaired in Mumbai,is the i-store and the supposedly 'Apple compliant' service it purports to offer. The store services the millions in South Mumbai who have expended a considerable sum of money to own Apple products and they have ONE single individual doing all the technical work from the actual assessment of what is wrong with your product to what it will cost to repair, which in my case was something he required to look up on the laptop (no one else seemed to be capable on going online and doing that for him) while another angry customer let all the staff in the shop get a piece of her mind.

I have been to the Apple stopre 4 times in the last 4 weeks as they never could tell me exactly what was wrong during the first two visits or how long it would take to repair thereafter. What truly irritated me was not the fact that my computer’s health deteriorated further while in the i-store but there was a complete disregard for my time and for the amount of fuel I would have to expend to make another trip to the store. I have honestly had better service in Indian government run organisations, which is really the worst insult I can bestow on anyone or anything!

I refuse to rave and rant any more about how the Mahalaxmi i-store done me wrong. Instead let me share my list of a few things to do when your stuck in Mahalaxmi (everyone with an Apple anything in the area pay attention you will need to spend time pottering about there). First a confession although I should inform everyone of the very famous temple there I did not visit it as I was not in the state of mind to a place of religious worship in the mood I was in. In hindsight I really should have, as God may have been able to pave the path to some service and straight answers across the street. Fear not as I have not disposed my Apple I know there will be so many opportunities to visit the temple. Maybe i should skip the store next time and just take the laptop to the nearest house of God!

When I am a bit peeved I turn to chocolate and the Cinnabon outlet a few shops away was an ideal distraction. I had been pre-warned my Cinnabon fans to insist on freshly baked stock so that is exactly what I did. My first Cinebon experience in India did not disappoint the chocolate mini bite sized ones were yummy but I counted two less pieces then I would receive in Dubai and pointed it out to the management who informed me in India you only get 4. Do note that although you receive two less the pricing is almost the same as Dubai.

My next find was treasure, which I know prove to be a burden on my wallet for years to come. I cant think of enough nice things to say about the small shop full of natural, ayurvedic creams, potions and every conceivable beauty product barring very disappointingly make up. Forrest Essentials is just an amazing store with a super energy, feel and chic packaging. I walked in off the street only intending to do some browsing but the Jasmine oil they had on the burner coupled with the products on display were so enticing that I was relieved when they accepted my credit card. The shop was a real find for apart form the lip balm, night cream and Jasmine Oil I discovered a natural calendula mosquito repellant spray, which is something I have sought far and wide after suffering from the increased barrage of monsoon mosquito bites.

Another place which is worth the visit is the Shraddha Charitable Trust, which is an organization which helps mentally challenged young adults to attain financial independence. They are located across the street form the i-store in a public school behind the Ghetto Pub. When I got to Shraddha's premises and I saw the lovely ladies who teach the challenged young people handicrafts and those that manage the store where the handicrafts are sold all I could do was admire those who strive to assist others better their lives. I did buy a few wonderful gifts, which I wanted to send my friends back home and I will honestly say not one was bought out of pity.

Their products were so very professionally made that you really cant find fault with them and when you consider every product is handmade you know your getting more then value for your money. You can purchase number unique handmade items like jute bags, greeting cards, floating candleholders, gift boxes and funky ethnic handbags and stationary. My favorites were the cute ethnic handbags and the unique extremely well crafted disposable plates made from leaves.

As I paid for the goods I bought at Shraddha I actually considered giving them the entire sum of money I had saved up to get my computer repaired, well barring what I had spent at Forest Essentials but as I need the computer to make my daily bread I have to put that thought on hold. They do accept charitable donations and they are happy to provide you with a tax certificate as well for the same so if your feeling charitable do pay them a visit.

As the Aroma Thai Foot Spa located a few doors away from the i-store I assumed it probably gets a lot of customers from the i-store that need soothing down. The spa looked and felt relaxing to be in and the staff were warn and very kind but the chairs that they use were so uncomfortable that even if the session was wonderful i can only best describe it as adequate.

If anyone from Apple or i-store is reading this for the love of God do something. I intend to own my laptop, i-pod and apple accessories for a long time I really cant afford to spend so much on Cinnabon, Forest Essentials and reflexology! Train more technical staff for your stores or just remove all Apple service centers from India and give us an alternative as to how we can seamlessly repair our Apple goods.

Friday 24 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: The Causway: Cheap and Cheerful day in Mumbai

Return to the 'Bay: The Causway: Cheap and Cheerful day in Mumbai: "One of my top choices for things to do if you ever find yourself with a bit of time to kill in South Mumbai is Colaba Causeway. It offers..."

The Causway: Cheap and Cheerful day in Mumbai

One of my top choices for things to do if you ever find yourself with a bit of time to kill in South Mumbai is Colaba Causeway.

It offers the perfect blend of entertainment, cheap buys to quell any retail therapy urges and it is a great to buy gifts for people who want something "Indian" or "antique-ish". Colaba Causeway can be described as part roadside Bazaar, part tourist trap and part Oxford street type (cheap to mid) range high street shopping.

So what exactly is the Causeway? well at one point and time, it was a stretch on land only accessible during low tide which was reclaimed to form a structure which connected the stretch of land between Colaba Island and Old Woman's Island the Southernmost of Bombay's 7 islands (for those who are unfamiliar Bombay consisted of 7 islands). Till this day Colaba Causeway is a significant road that connects the southernmost tip of Mumbai with the rest of the city.

To those who do not frequent Colaba the Causeway is just the road behind the iconic monument hotel Taj. A once beautiful avenue of buildings dating back more then a century bear their scars and stretch marks of old age. Many are in dire need of renovation and you really have to be patient and try to see their beauty these days. Most of the 4 and 5 storied buildings have been invaded by vendors who have encroached on ever spare bit pavement space under their turn of the century porticoed entrance arches.

At first glance the entire street looks like a shabby roadside bazaar a blight on the beauty of the splendor of grand old buildings. Then you notice that all the building owners at some point must have given up on trying to evict the vendors as every building has let out its road facing ground floor to commercial tenants. Today if you look past the vendors on the outer side of the porticoes you will find Benetton, Levis, Lees, Bodyshop, Nike, Reebok and other mid range high street shops.

Odd exotic shops bearing strange names with the words Arab and African thrown in, pharmacies, tailors, wholesalers, laundries, toyshops and florists. There are shops selling import-export rejects, the kind of labeled clothes sold in the UK and US which did not pass the mark to be shipped but look almost unto par with those that made it across the seas. So if labels matter to you the export rejects may be your thing, as they tend to have a very slight flaws that you cant usually tell. The vendors specialize in fake everything so if you want a fake T-shirt or watch I am told the causeway is the place to be.

Obviously there are also lots of touristy wears on display with touristy prices. However can convince the vendors that you are Indian (which I find very difficult) they tend not to quote unreasonably high rates to you. If you are an experienced bargainer the Causeway is definitely the place for you to test your skills.

If you need to buy gifts in bulk for friend’s abroad this is the place. My favorite gifts to give are beautifully carved wooden incense holders, faux antique compasses, faux antique early 19 century telephones, funky thick colorful resin bangles and multicolored glass bangles (both of which are so trendy these days) and so many bits of really good quality semi precious jewellery. If your into Indian clothes you will find cheap salwars there, the very popular harem pants, tie die everything (there are many kaftan shops which are very popular), huge cloth ethnic bags, inlay marble boxes and Rajisthani style mirror work cholis and skirts.

The Causeway is full of restaurants to suit every pallet. You can choose from North Indian to Chaat (roadside snacky cuisine), Parsi and Irani, Indian Chinese, Sandwich places, Coffee shops and Patisseries. My top tries are Delhi Darbar for Indian the must have is not a main but the roomily root its fantastic but I feel claustrophobic so I usually do a take away form there. Another place where you can have nice Indian kabobs is Cafe Leopold, which is quite a landmark as it was popularized in the book Shantaram. Unfortunately it was also the first location the terrorists struck in Bombay a few years ago fortunately the place survived and thrives more then ever.

If you want the best sandwich in Bombay head to the end of the Causeway to Paradise Restaurant a hole in the wall but clean and hygienic. Their mayonnaise is to die for. The chicken mayo sans and rolls are outstanding. Their chutney sans is super too. As far as patisseries and bakeries go Theobroma is legendary for their brownies. My favorite is something a dietician’s nightmare is made of the chocolate cookie brownie...so it’s actually a chocolate chip cookie topping on a decadent brownie. Theoborma also does a good smoked chicken roll and a good iced coffee.

If you are looking for a posher meal then you need to turn off the Causeway and walk a few minutes. The most expensive option is the Taj. Although this ones a hotel and not a monument it is steeped in so much history that I would describe it as a monument. It does has many nice restaurants and super ambience but it also the most expensive venue for a meal in the city.

Indigo is a restobar with a huge fan following. Its cuisine is Western Nouvelle/ Fusion. Busabar, right next to Indigo is a Pan Asian Restaurant, which has a good reputation though I cant, vouch for it. In all fairness my date for that meal was someone who is very allergic to nuts and I could not sample most of the dishes on the menu so its a must try again. If you want a good authentic Chinese meal I cannot think of a better place then Lings Pavilion. Words to the wise please do tell them what you expect from your meal. Indians tend to love their Indianised Chinese food so if you do not specify that is probably what you will end up with. Do note the drawback is the decor and general atmosphere of the restaurant its dingy and noisy they really need to do up the place.

The one place I can recommend for a nice meal, or just a quick bite, if you can get a table is the Indigo Deli. In my opinion it’s the shining star of the off Causeway restaurants with a great ambiance and a super menu. It deserves whole blog to itself but if you want a great sandwich, pasta or nicest ice cream with the nicest palette of flavors in Bombay that’s the place to go.

All in all who ever you are wherever your from and whatever your budget you will find something to do at the Causeway. If your a visitor to Bombay its one of those must not miss places.

Wednesday 15 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: A day at the Museum

Return to the 'Bay: A day at the Museum: "The formerly Prince of Wales Musieum off Kala Ghodha is a super place to go when your down on your finances. If your an Indian its Rs. 30 pe..."

A day at the Museum

The formerly Prince of Wales Musieum off Kala Ghodha is a super place to go when your down on your finances. If your an Indian its Rs. 30 per adult less if your a child. If you are a foreigner it does cost Rs 300 quite a bit more but I think far less then you would pay to visit a museum in most countries of the world.

If you have no money well then I recommend you wander in and potter about the superbly maintained gardens of the museum and take in the beautiful architecture of the grandiose architectural structure that is the museum. It is simply iconic with a very distinctive dome and beautifully maintained gardens. If your a romantic sort of person you want to go there just now regardless of the rains to gaze upon the lone tree close to the central structure of the museum which is in full blossom with most beautiful pink flowers on display.

If you are lucky when you visit you may come upon a bazaar of tribal or other goods from all over India. The best new is that it costs nothing to go potter about and browse around. bear in mind through that if you want to see the treasures the museum bears you will have to pay but really my coconut vendor charges me more for one coconut (feel free to let me know if I am being robbed blind) so I really do not think its much even on a very financially challenging day.

A word of warning to those who have not tread upon a tourist spot frequented by domestic Indian tourists, tolerance and patience are the only things that will enable you to enjoy the experience. You have to bear in mind that most Indian tourists who end up at the museum are from small towns and villages so there may be a lot left to desire if you thought the ettiquette of the average Indian city dweller was appauling. On the other hand they may think just as poorly of you, your clothes etc etc so be patient. I strongly advise visiting the museum at an odd hour of a working day.

It is super to know that the government is working hard to develop, renovate and work with the museum on many new an innovative acitivities, including lots of activities that involve educating children. It may be worth looking up the museum's website for more details.

Now I love heritage structures like the Museum and loathe the newer steel and concrete messes that suddenly seem to sprout up in the city. However I do not hate the all new steel funky steel structure that houses a brand new ticket book and a very cool looking shop. The shop looked very tempting but was shut as it was still being stocked. I have to say I will go back just to potter about the shop which I am sure will be another thing one can do for free in Bombay.

Now a word of caution to all those Indians that can pass off as foreigners, get some identification stating your Indian. And note speaking a number of Indian languages will not help at all it may just fuel the war of words you will have with people who think your out there to fleece them of Rs. 270 more the foreigners pay into another language.

When you enter the main building you enter a foyer in which you get a taste of all things to come. You can see some mogal miniatures, a few ancient structures which probably pre-date Christ by mellenia and lots of other things. What I was thrilled to see was an information desk well stocked with people who were happy to point out to you where what was! And if you wanted to you could rent audio guides in many languages form them, which I did not do.

On both sides of the main foyer are galleries and long porches that house sculptures and stone tables form the Buddhist and Jain eras. You also can see very ancient statues of Hindu Gods and Goddesses which were exquisite. What I was not keen on is the fact that they were not protected by glass and anyone can reach out and literally paw or grab at them. I remember this was the case when I had gone to the museum as a school girl. Whats amazing is that everything seems to still be there and now its quite simply as my 5 year old puts it awesome.

I do know that at the end of the left porch is the museum's natural history section which children absolutely find amazing as they have stuffed animals and birds of every imaginable variety and they make up in very well replicated models of things they do not have in clay. I unfortunately am a tremendous animal lover and could not bear to see dead stuffed animals but my 5 year old did go on another visit with friends and the children were quite fascinated.

I was unable to enjoy the first floor which housed some lovely exhibits form other Asian countries as I found that part of the museum very claustrophobic. There were no windows or air outlets at all, loads of people and no airconditioning or any other means to keep air circulation going.

What I did enjoy were two of the famous Chinese terracotta warriors which were on exhibit along with a lot of other Chinese artifacts which were wonderfully preserved and displayed. That section of the museum was air conditioned, I am sure the Chinese must have insisted so their exhibits stay in the condition that they were sent.

A feature I noticed most males seemed to enjoy, no not nude anythings there were none, was the numismatic section. That simply somehow translates into the museum's coin collection. It was interesting for a quick walk about to me but there were men gawping at coins as I would inside a Chanel window for the sighting of their latest handbag.

The highlight of my visit was the recently opened Jehangir Nicholson wing which houses a cross-section of modern Indian art. I have to say I was expecting a bit more then just air conditioning and the extra security from the exhibit, which was great, but I feel something was amiss or very predominantly lacking. Perhaps it was just the fact that I had worked myself up to expecting much, much more form the art on show.

Anyway so if you really are short on cash or you have people of various ages visiting from out of town and they expect culture, entertainment, experiencing Indian culture the museum is your best bet. If really your totally broke then the just walking the grounds and taking in the majesty of the building will make you feel rich in your experiences if not your wallet.

Thursday 9 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: Finally a Salon that does not ....

Return to the 'Bay: Finally a Salon that does not ....: "Salons in Bombay as they are usually small and cramped, have very low or no standards of hygene and the staff is just untrained, uncouth and..."

Finally a Salon that does not ....

Salons in Bombay as they are usually small and cramped, have very low or no standards of hygene and the staff is just untrained, uncouth and incompetent. When you go to a salon in any other country (I have even been to one in Egypt) you are treated like a queen and the ambience and atmosphere is so relaxing or cool and funkey you want to linger there for ages.

My salon experiences in Bombay have been horrific. I have walked out of salons as their sterilisation facilities were just not upto the mark and the staff did not even know that you can get AIDS from a mini-pedi kit if its not sterilised properly! I have left less then a minute into a facial as my very highly recommended facialist had decided to eat a curry and onion based lunch 3 hours before I came in. The issue was not just something that could have been resolved with a stick of mint chewing gum as she had decided to eat her lunch the Indian way, with their hands!!! Apart from the hygene aspect just imagine the odiferous fingers being waived around your face for 45 miinuites!

I have also been burnt with tongs when having my hair strightened when pregnant which was very scary. And I have been burnt with hot wax meant for someone else's waxing session which just had to be ferried scorching hot across the room and spilled on me in the process.What really got me angry was the shoddy way in which I was apologised to. If I start to name and shame saloons in South Bombay I think I can go an and on and on. So I will only write about my top 3 preferences here. Do note that I did not attempt to go to the Taj, Oberoi or President Hotel's as I have a limited amount of time and did not want to waste time with security checks and the entire drama that goes along with it.

My first choice and really only all round recommendation is the mini heaven in the guise of the new Jean Claude Beginie salon off Colaba. I saw it from the street and walked in to see if the interiors were as nice form the outside. It did not disappoint. It was wonderfully decorated the ambiance was super and the inside was a neat freak's heaven. It was white and looked so clean it could have sparkled. All of the staff I came into contact with were articulate spoke great English, understood what I wanted and were really extremely gracious and obliging.

From the second I set foot in the salon I knew I was in the right place. The ladies who were at the counter were superbly groomed very well versed on the services the saloon offered, confident and very professional. I actually was able to converse with them and that convinced me to have a complete make-over there that very second. On entering most of the other salon's that are supposed to be "super" (which I would barely classify as decent) be prepared to be assaulted by bad mix of attitude, body oder and incompetence I for once am never enticed to even take an appointment let alone insist on an instant one.

As I was prepared to make a drastic change to my look I insisted on their top stylist. They told me she was totally booked but they understood that I needed a lot of guidance so they had a chat with her and she told them she would see me in 5 minutes. As soon as she finished with her clients with no drama Florence heard me out, sympathised with my concerns to dramatically alter my hair in every way and advised me what to do in a very professional manner. She vetoed the cut I wanted as it would not suit my face and the colour I wanted would do little for my skin tone. She also very graciously agreed to squeeze me in between two clients to cut my hair myself as she could feel my apprehension.

Now I had my 6 month old with my that day the staff was outstanding manuvering about her pram and they even took time out to entertain her. I was very pleased Divya the stylist who coloured my hair and also with Vinayak who gave me a nice paraffin mani-pedi. I was thrilled to discover a salon in Bombay with ergonomic seats which could be adjusted around the client. The fact that the chair also had a massage option for one's back was icing on the cake.

I have to say the most impressive thing about my cut was that before Florance began as busy as she was she waited for me to understand and agree to what she would do before proceeding. She did have to repeat herself twice not because of her French but because I was so very comfortable I zoned out. The fact Florance discussed aftercare in the form of tips on how to look after and style my hair was appreciated. I could not find fault with anything at all on any account at the Beguine salon and that something that does not happen often to me.

Some other options for anyone who does not want to go all the way to Colaba is to try the two more Beguine salons nestled somewhere in the suburbs. If that is not convenient then try Anees at the Moksh gym saloon on Breach Candy with a salon. He gives excellent cuts and does a very good colour. The one thing I can say for sure about Anees's cuts is that he has a magic touch all his haircuts grow our beautifully. He is really an artist at creating a hairstyle but had a tendency to cut hair shorter then one intends to go. The main drawback apart from getting an appointment with Anees as he is always booked, is that the salon he is with is miniscule. It is very, very small and I was not keen on their blow dry's or any other services.

Suzie at Touch of Joy is gives a decent cut and colour if you can put up with the fish market ambiance of the salon. Another thing about Touch of Joy is that you really need to know people who go there to guide you as to which stylist and therapist to go for what or you will end up with disasterous results.

A good place for a blowdry and wax is Beyond the Fringe its tucked away in Altermount Road across the standard Chartered ATM. I cannot remember the name of the man who used to do my hair or the girl who waxed my arms as it was over 6 months ago but I was happy with the service, and again do not expect too much from the salon per se.

Salon Des Amis is an option for those who are scattered around Napien Sea Road and Malabar Hill.It is a small mum and pop type place but far more expensive then the other little salons scattered in the area. The staff is warm and gracious and they are very competent at what they do. Khursheed who pops in there form time to time gives good cuts and does a great job with colour too.

The last place I care to mention in Bombay is a place in Worli called Sizzors over Comb that I had been to over a decade ago. One of the perks about it was parking right by the salon which is huge in Bombay. I do not know the saloon still exists. I recently admired a friend's hair and discovered Anu Yousef, who owned or still owns Sizzors over Comb cut it so that may be an option worth checking out.

Although I love my hair, nails and the new salon I discovered I missed having my hair done by the coolest hair personality in the world Ms. Josephene Sattout in all her Lebanese-Aussie awesomeness. I missed being spoiled and treated like a queen at her just opened the Pastels saloon in the Mercato Mall in Dubai. Josie thank you for teaching me what to expect from a saloon and how to just chill out and appreciate .... so this blog is dedicated for you...

Sunday 5 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: Sushi Therapy

Return to the 'Bay: Sushi Therapy: "Last week I was supposed to leave Bombay and return to where I came from. I was so happy and excited I had international roaming set up on m..."

Sushi Therapy

Last week I was supposed to leave Bombay and return to where I came from. I was so happy and excited I had international roaming set up on my blackberry, presents were bought for friends I missed terribly and my meals were pre planned, sushi everyday until I got ill. .

And then the Indian passport office just did such a good job with my babies passport that I am still here ten days later. After a day of crying and expressing not so nice things about the Indian passport office I decided to try and look on the brighter side of things. I realised although I was stuck in Bombay I did have the budget I saved for my holiday for sushi and a lot more.

So I decided to treat myself and a friend to sushi in Bombay and see what I can get here. A few years ago I visited a restaurant in Mumbai and was entertained with some pomp. A note to all non returned NRI's beware is only reserved for you while you are overseas if your lucky when you return you will be asked to join someone for dinner at a club! Anyway that establishment was hilariously expensive so much so that I have had cheaper meals and Zuma and Nobu and the sushi was at best a tad above what one gets at Yo Sushi!

Fenix at what used to be the new Oberoi (I have no clue what the hotel is called now but its the little building by the old Oberoi tower just as you turn into Nariman Point) was what everyone I spoke to said I should try. Security as expected was omnipresnet. Our cars were checked, bags screened and we went through a metal detector and a wand was waived around us. My friend seemed oblivious to such screening procedures which seem to be very common in India theses days for me its still something I have to get used to.

The restaurant was modern and a bit soulless in its ambiance but it was made up for by super attentive and very gracious staff. The menu was extensive and really one is spoilt for choice there. While I selected my sushi I was very apprehensive of how some of the ingredients would combine together and taste. The food took a while to get to our table but it was so good that sin can be forgiven. The fish was very fresh, presentation good, the taste exquisite and the portions surprisingly sizeable.

When we reached the point when we were just on the verge of feeling like we had enough to eat we decided to overeat and ordered the soft shell crab roll, which was a mistake. The crab encased in the sushi through very presentable was barely there they seemed to have used the tentacles only and it tasted like some Indian bhajiya! My friend very used to my voicing my honest opinions regarding food in restaurants managed to restrain me until we had finished the dish.

I did say my piece when the plates were cleared and in less then two minuites Rubin Santos came out and met with us. He explained that he had used a five spice on the crab not an Indian masala and he was most apologetic about us not liking the flavour of the crab. He accepted our praise for all the other dishes gracefully and he had such a pleasing personality we managed to forget about the crab altogether. He offered to immediately replace it and when we declined he or whoever the powers be at Phoenix took the dish off our bill.

Now the only real let down of the evening was the hot chocolate chip souffle which Chef Santos I am told was not responsible for. It was awful. Egg puffed up and heated with a few chocolate chips on top doth not a dessert make. It really would have been the perfect egg based dessert!

Fortunately our dinner did not end there that would have been a very inappropriate end to an otherwise super evening. We were given some delicious petit fours. The chocolate nut concoction was nice that it made up for the slightly stale chocolate chip financier which if a bit fresher or baked a few seconds less would have been perfect.

And now for the finances... the bill surprisingly was far less then we expected to shell out for a meal like the one we had had. It was not cheap but it was priced appropriately to reflect the quantity and quality of the food. As long as the Phoenix maintains their standards I know I will go back again and again. I really recommend it to anyone who has sushi cravings.

Saturday 4 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue Kala Ghodha

Return to the 'Bay: Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue Kala Ghodha: "In a city that never shuts up in an area that is at the epicenter of commerical and legal activity there is an oasis of peace ironically sur..."

Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue Kala Ghodha

In a city that never shuts up in an area that is at the epicenter of commerical and legal activity there is an oasis of peace ironically surrounded by armoured cars and many policemen. If you want to get in you need to ask the police if you can enter then you need to go through one other security measures.

I was lucky enough after a few failed attempts to be allowed into the Synagogue in Kala Ghodha. The Knesset Eliyahoo Synagogue is situated in a bylane behind Rythem House. Its facade is as beautiful as any other building credited to David Sasoon. It is unique in every way from the other equally magnificiant but grey stone buildings for it is painted a pastel baby blue with its facade highlighted in sharp white. If you want to go there land up in Kala Ghodha you just can't miss it.

Once inside you climb up stairs and are transported into another world of sheer tranquility. Its unread how at peace you feel even though through one of the windows you look into a fashion house and the other some manically chaotic business. I would have loved a tour or even just to meet the rabbi and have a chat learn something about the faith I know the least about and more about the synagogue. But that was not to be someone who worked there cleaning the place escorted me in and hung around to make sure I would not nick anything.

The first thing I noticed about the synagogue's interiors was that she was a grand old lady who although did not look her age had been through better times. The ceilings were high, the dome exquisite and beautifully maintained as were the alters and the stained glass. But the Torahs had seen better days and the comfortable sofas were naked of their tapestry or had been refurbished very cheaply as the fabric bore the stamps of the manufacturer of the undergarment of the sofa.

None of it mattered as I sat down in a corner with the protector of the synagogue eyeing me very suspiciously! When he realised I was in meditation and logically I suppose came to the conclusion with a 5 month old baby in a sling I would not be able to steal a sofa or anything large so he left me for what I presume was a few minutes. The peace that overcame me was wonderful and I really did enjoy a few moments of clarity and a bit of bliss.

Now although visiting most religious places are free and this is something you can do for free, one should compensate for the spiritual gains one has attained so on leaving I popped some money into the charity boxes. I am ashamed to say I had very little change on me which I am sure was not enough to compensate for the tranquility I gained from it so I will have to go back soon to pop in more money into those boxes which will be a pleasure.

If you work with or are in anyway a supporter of the synagogue or a member of its congregation it would be lovely if you could convince the rabbi allow tours which are educational on the synagogue its history, the history of the Bagdadi and the Maratha Jewish people and in general something about Judaism as well.

Thursday 2 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: Corporate Downsizing reflected on my Plate: Sea Lo...

Return to the 'Bay: Corporate Downsizing reflected on my Plate: Sea Lo...: "One of my fondest memories of my childhood was going to the Sea Lounge to have what my mother called 'high tea'. All I remember is sitting b..."

Corporate Downsizing reflected on my Plate: Sea Lounge

One of my fondest memories of my childhood was going to the Sea Lounge to have what my mother called 'high tea'. All I remember is sitting by the window and looking at the boats bob up and down in the Arabian Sea. When I first returned to Bombay last year a few things cheered me up as much as friends who visited from overseas. And so it happened that one such friend dragged me to the Taj and re-introduced me to the Sea Lounge.

From the second I walked in there I knew I had found a space I would love for however long I find myself in India. The decor was just to my taste - simple and elegant. The baby blueish powdery paint and white mouldings went a long way to add to the very relaxed energy and the sounds of the grand piano drowned out everything that was chaotic. Although I have been there many times in the last few months I am unable to describe anything else about the place, my attention is on every visit has been focussed on getting a table by the window. If, like me you are not a “spa person” and you want to treat yourself to some peace and quiet I can't think of another such peaceful luxurious sanctuary in Bombay.

The Sea Lounge is a treat I am not a great bill discetor but I am aware that the bill would be in the general viscinity of ‘I am spoiling myself’. It is a nice place to share with a close friend or a special date. However, a word to the wise, the Taj has a lot of security checks and at times the entire street near it is cordonned off by the police and is not accessible even if you are going to the Taj. So if your date is someone who will be irrate about waiting for the car, walking a bit in the sun or going through the secuirty checks and handbag searches perhaps the Sea Lounge is not the most appropraite place on that occassion.

The staff at the Sea Lounge are always polite and welcoming. There was an occasion once though when a friend of mine and I walked in and we could not find a single member of staff. After waiting a while the pianist gallantly showed us to a table. As my grandmother would say the service at the Taj is not what it used to be like in the good old days.

Then there was the occasion that my friend ended up having her pani puri and chutney served to her on her dress. It was an accident we understood that. The staff were very apologetic but they made no effort to get my friend’s clothes laundered which I felt is the least they could have done through their in house laundry. An establishment of similar standing in another country would have offered to compensate my friend for her laundry bill or they would have given us a complimentary meal or simply taken something off our bill. That was not an enjoyable lunch as we spent most of it in the ladies room trying to clean all the food off my friends dress. On a positive note though the lady who works in the ladies room was exceedingly helpful and kind.

I have to admit that I am not a chaat fan. I do not like Indian snacks and I have never tried chaat at the Sea Lounge. However I know lots of people who visit from overseas to like to go there and pay a heafty permium for what I like to call "street food served posh". However I would like to point out that the chaat is served so exquisitely that the food presentation can compare to any fine restaurant in the world.

I am a tremendously fussy eater. I have a wide ranging palette but I loathe food that is not upto the mark. On all my visits I have always stuck to munching down the tenderloin sandwich. I really liked the generous bit of avocado (hard to get in Mumbai) a sprinkle of scallions and one is always pleased with chips by ones sani.

A tip to those who are not very clued in on Indian beef, when one orders beef in India one must never have high expectations to the extent that one must really expect to be served beef. It is a fact that more often than not you will be served buffalo meat, which if prepared well can taste quite pleasant.

Now when you order any beef or whatever is served masquerading as beef beware Indians only eat overcooked meat! In my opinion it is a total waste if you can actually manage to get a sliver of decent beef in Bombay to have it cooked till its a shade of something positively unattractive and has the texture of chewing gum. So all those who risk ordering beef and want it cooked rare, medium rare, medium or medium well is to describe it by colour of the meat so simply request  "Please make sure the middle is ..." "bloody red","red no blood", " light pink" etc.

The Sea Lounge unfortunately is not an exception to overcooking steak. I have complained about the meat in that sandwich almost every time I have eaten it. On my last visit my friend a usually very kind and mild lady had my sandwich returned when the staff mumbled an apology and said they would inform the chef. So another Bombay lesson learned, do not complain subtly in about the inadequacy of the preparation or quality of your food simply state "Please take it back and repalce it"!

Now as I waited for my replacement sandwich I was hungry, hot and wanted a pep me up so on a whim I ordered a cold coffee with ice cream. I am aware it is not anyones choice for a pre-lunch aperatif but I am thrilled I did for all I can say about it is that it was outstanding.

My overall verdict on the the Sea Lounge, ditch the lunch, have a few cold coffees and if your brave try a snack.

PS - I visited the Sea Lounge last week and have a post script as a result...if you order the Tenderloin Sandwich it is not the same as described above ...do NOT expect more then a few sparce slivers of avocado in the sani and forget the chips they are not included with the sandwich anymore. What can I say... apart from beware the effects of corporate downsizing on your plate!

Monday 30 May 2011

Return to the 'Bay: Kala Ghodha: a discovery in of culture and art

Return to the 'Bay: Kala Ghodha: a discovery in of culture and art: "If you find yourself in South Bombay and have some time to kill just head straight to the cultural hub of the city, Kala Ghodha. Whatever b..."

Kala Ghodha: a discovery in of culture and art

If you find yourself in South Bombay and have some time to kill just head straight to the cultural hub of the city, Kala Ghodha. Whatever budget you have will do for an afternoon in Kala Ghodha having money is optional, unless your driving then you will have to pay for parking.

I can’t suggest a better place to start then the museum and its majestic grounds. A walk from the museum to the Jehangir Art Gallery is laden with street art and it’s called the Pavement Art Gallery. It is a place of great interest to me you never know when you will discover there and its an opportunity to invest in a maybe great artist. My mother swears that when she was a young girl this bearded man used to chat with her and ask her to buy his artworks there. I assure you if she did so today we would have sold his art work and I would be self publishing my own books if not own a publishing house! That artist today if the legendary MF Hussain!!!

If your walking through the Pavement Art Gallery you will end up at the Jehangir Art gallery and for those who like cutting edge art by the Museum Art gallery in the Max Muller Bhavan building. Great news to all those on a very low budget outing, its all free. If your hungry there are loads of stalls from time to time on the streets to grab a budget snack.

If your hungry and want a nice meal cross the street to find a wide range of restaurants ranging from Joss which has a good spread to the Bombay Blue franchise which is the epitome of reasonably priced food. There is a snacky place on the road and a Chinese place but I have never had the chance to try either. I am told that Chetna does decent vegetarian food but the fact that the bookstore behind it is a treasure trove of spiritual books and they have some other cute nic naks I can vouch for. The staff at Chetna bookstore is very educated on all the publications and if you have time to spare you can discuss a few spiritual and mythological topics with them who knows you may add to your knowledge from a chat, again great on a low budget as its free.

After lunch you may want to pop into Rhythm House and browse through CD’s, movies, magazines and nifty accessories. In the days before you could download movies and music of the internet it was a place swamped with college students. If the thought that when you were a teenager you had cassettes gets you feeling old and down cross the road and visit the Art Entrance, which in my opinion has a steady stream of really nice artists exhibits. Westside is next door and they are very proud of their new deli so peak in there for dinner ingredients if you have money to spare and do not mind tampons in close proximity to your food. As the tampons were in packets and obviously unused it did not bother me but if you’re a fussy about segregating sanitary wear from food heads up.

One of my favorite people watching places in Bombay is the trendy but way too healthy for a meal Kala Ghodha café. I do love to go there but it contradicts my if your going out forget your diet at home rule. If your lucky on the way to the Kala Ghodha café which is tucked in a by lane behind Rhythm House there you may be able to get permission of the dozen or so police officers hovering about to get a peak inside the beautiful synagogue. By now if for some reason if you have not had your fill of art there is a tiny gallery next to the Kala Ghodha café and if you walk back to the Museum and cross the road you will be assaulted by the Modern Art Museum.

A must visit for all foreign tourists is FabIndia which is a bit off the Kala Ghodha square. When I lived overseas I used to buy loads of things from my house and for my friends from there. Its three floors of clothes, house accessories and it also has a small organic section for a few select edibles.

If you just want to potter and chill out without OD’ing on culture you can grab lunch or coffee and go to the movies a few minute away form the Museum of Modern Art. A word to those who have never watched a movie in India it can be a slightly jarring experience. I am still not used to the fact that every single time I manage to engrossed in the film it shuts down abruptly, the lights will flicker on the screen flashes intermission and everyone will vanish to pee and eat.

So as you may have guessed in the next few weeks I will be sharing my adventures in Kala Ghodha with you.