Friday, 24 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: The Causway: Cheap and Cheerful day in Mumbai

Return to the 'Bay: The Causway: Cheap and Cheerful day in Mumbai: "One of my top choices for things to do if you ever find yourself with a bit of time to kill in South Mumbai is Colaba Causeway. It offers..."

The Causway: Cheap and Cheerful day in Mumbai

One of my top choices for things to do if you ever find yourself with a bit of time to kill in South Mumbai is Colaba Causeway.

It offers the perfect blend of entertainment, cheap buys to quell any retail therapy urges and it is a great to buy gifts for people who want something "Indian" or "antique-ish". Colaba Causeway can be described as part roadside Bazaar, part tourist trap and part Oxford street type (cheap to mid) range high street shopping.

So what exactly is the Causeway? well at one point and time, it was a stretch on land only accessible during low tide which was reclaimed to form a structure which connected the stretch of land between Colaba Island and Old Woman's Island the Southernmost of Bombay's 7 islands (for those who are unfamiliar Bombay consisted of 7 islands). Till this day Colaba Causeway is a significant road that connects the southernmost tip of Mumbai with the rest of the city.

To those who do not frequent Colaba the Causeway is just the road behind the iconic monument hotel Taj. A once beautiful avenue of buildings dating back more then a century bear their scars and stretch marks of old age. Many are in dire need of renovation and you really have to be patient and try to see their beauty these days. Most of the 4 and 5 storied buildings have been invaded by vendors who have encroached on ever spare bit pavement space under their turn of the century porticoed entrance arches.

At first glance the entire street looks like a shabby roadside bazaar a blight on the beauty of the splendor of grand old buildings. Then you notice that all the building owners at some point must have given up on trying to evict the vendors as every building has let out its road facing ground floor to commercial tenants. Today if you look past the vendors on the outer side of the porticoes you will find Benetton, Levis, Lees, Bodyshop, Nike, Reebok and other mid range high street shops.

Odd exotic shops bearing strange names with the words Arab and African thrown in, pharmacies, tailors, wholesalers, laundries, toyshops and florists. There are shops selling import-export rejects, the kind of labeled clothes sold in the UK and US which did not pass the mark to be shipped but look almost unto par with those that made it across the seas. So if labels matter to you the export rejects may be your thing, as they tend to have a very slight flaws that you cant usually tell. The vendors specialize in fake everything so if you want a fake T-shirt or watch I am told the causeway is the place to be.

Obviously there are also lots of touristy wears on display with touristy prices. However can convince the vendors that you are Indian (which I find very difficult) they tend not to quote unreasonably high rates to you. If you are an experienced bargainer the Causeway is definitely the place for you to test your skills.

If you need to buy gifts in bulk for friend’s abroad this is the place. My favorite gifts to give are beautifully carved wooden incense holders, faux antique compasses, faux antique early 19 century telephones, funky thick colorful resin bangles and multicolored glass bangles (both of which are so trendy these days) and so many bits of really good quality semi precious jewellery. If your into Indian clothes you will find cheap salwars there, the very popular harem pants, tie die everything (there are many kaftan shops which are very popular), huge cloth ethnic bags, inlay marble boxes and Rajisthani style mirror work cholis and skirts.

The Causeway is full of restaurants to suit every pallet. You can choose from North Indian to Chaat (roadside snacky cuisine), Parsi and Irani, Indian Chinese, Sandwich places, Coffee shops and Patisseries. My top tries are Delhi Darbar for Indian the must have is not a main but the roomily root its fantastic but I feel claustrophobic so I usually do a take away form there. Another place where you can have nice Indian kabobs is Cafe Leopold, which is quite a landmark as it was popularized in the book Shantaram. Unfortunately it was also the first location the terrorists struck in Bombay a few years ago fortunately the place survived and thrives more then ever.

If you want the best sandwich in Bombay head to the end of the Causeway to Paradise Restaurant a hole in the wall but clean and hygienic. Their mayonnaise is to die for. The chicken mayo sans and rolls are outstanding. Their chutney sans is super too. As far as patisseries and bakeries go Theobroma is legendary for their brownies. My favorite is something a dietician’s nightmare is made of the chocolate cookie brownie...so it’s actually a chocolate chip cookie topping on a decadent brownie. Theoborma also does a good smoked chicken roll and a good iced coffee.

If you are looking for a posher meal then you need to turn off the Causeway and walk a few minutes. The most expensive option is the Taj. Although this ones a hotel and not a monument it is steeped in so much history that I would describe it as a monument. It does has many nice restaurants and super ambience but it also the most expensive venue for a meal in the city.

Indigo is a restobar with a huge fan following. Its cuisine is Western Nouvelle/ Fusion. Busabar, right next to Indigo is a Pan Asian Restaurant, which has a good reputation though I cant, vouch for it. In all fairness my date for that meal was someone who is very allergic to nuts and I could not sample most of the dishes on the menu so its a must try again. If you want a good authentic Chinese meal I cannot think of a better place then Lings Pavilion. Words to the wise please do tell them what you expect from your meal. Indians tend to love their Indianised Chinese food so if you do not specify that is probably what you will end up with. Do note the drawback is the decor and general atmosphere of the restaurant its dingy and noisy they really need to do up the place.

The one place I can recommend for a nice meal, or just a quick bite, if you can get a table is the Indigo Deli. In my opinion it’s the shining star of the off Causeway restaurants with a great ambiance and a super menu. It deserves whole blog to itself but if you want a great sandwich, pasta or nicest ice cream with the nicest palette of flavors in Bombay that’s the place to go.

All in all who ever you are wherever your from and whatever your budget you will find something to do at the Causeway. If your a visitor to Bombay its one of those must not miss places.

Wednesday, 15 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: A day at the Museum

Return to the 'Bay: A day at the Museum: "The formerly Prince of Wales Musieum off Kala Ghodha is a super place to go when your down on your finances. If your an Indian its Rs. 30 pe..."

A day at the Museum

The formerly Prince of Wales Musieum off Kala Ghodha is a super place to go when your down on your finances. If your an Indian its Rs. 30 per adult less if your a child. If you are a foreigner it does cost Rs 300 quite a bit more but I think far less then you would pay to visit a museum in most countries of the world.

If you have no money well then I recommend you wander in and potter about the superbly maintained gardens of the museum and take in the beautiful architecture of the grandiose architectural structure that is the museum. It is simply iconic with a very distinctive dome and beautifully maintained gardens. If your a romantic sort of person you want to go there just now regardless of the rains to gaze upon the lone tree close to the central structure of the museum which is in full blossom with most beautiful pink flowers on display.

If you are lucky when you visit you may come upon a bazaar of tribal or other goods from all over India. The best new is that it costs nothing to go potter about and browse around. bear in mind through that if you want to see the treasures the museum bears you will have to pay but really my coconut vendor charges me more for one coconut (feel free to let me know if I am being robbed blind) so I really do not think its much even on a very financially challenging day.

A word of warning to those who have not tread upon a tourist spot frequented by domestic Indian tourists, tolerance and patience are the only things that will enable you to enjoy the experience. You have to bear in mind that most Indian tourists who end up at the museum are from small towns and villages so there may be a lot left to desire if you thought the ettiquette of the average Indian city dweller was appauling. On the other hand they may think just as poorly of you, your clothes etc etc so be patient. I strongly advise visiting the museum at an odd hour of a working day.

It is super to know that the government is working hard to develop, renovate and work with the museum on many new an innovative acitivities, including lots of activities that involve educating children. It may be worth looking up the museum's website for more details.

Now I love heritage structures like the Museum and loathe the newer steel and concrete messes that suddenly seem to sprout up in the city. However I do not hate the all new steel funky steel structure that houses a brand new ticket book and a very cool looking shop. The shop looked very tempting but was shut as it was still being stocked. I have to say I will go back just to potter about the shop which I am sure will be another thing one can do for free in Bombay.

Now a word of caution to all those Indians that can pass off as foreigners, get some identification stating your Indian. And note speaking a number of Indian languages will not help at all it may just fuel the war of words you will have with people who think your out there to fleece them of Rs. 270 more the foreigners pay into another language.

When you enter the main building you enter a foyer in which you get a taste of all things to come. You can see some mogal miniatures, a few ancient structures which probably pre-date Christ by mellenia and lots of other things. What I was thrilled to see was an information desk well stocked with people who were happy to point out to you where what was! And if you wanted to you could rent audio guides in many languages form them, which I did not do.

On both sides of the main foyer are galleries and long porches that house sculptures and stone tables form the Buddhist and Jain eras. You also can see very ancient statues of Hindu Gods and Goddesses which were exquisite. What I was not keen on is the fact that they were not protected by glass and anyone can reach out and literally paw or grab at them. I remember this was the case when I had gone to the museum as a school girl. Whats amazing is that everything seems to still be there and now its quite simply as my 5 year old puts it awesome.

I do know that at the end of the left porch is the museum's natural history section which children absolutely find amazing as they have stuffed animals and birds of every imaginable variety and they make up in very well replicated models of things they do not have in clay. I unfortunately am a tremendous animal lover and could not bear to see dead stuffed animals but my 5 year old did go on another visit with friends and the children were quite fascinated.

I was unable to enjoy the first floor which housed some lovely exhibits form other Asian countries as I found that part of the museum very claustrophobic. There were no windows or air outlets at all, loads of people and no airconditioning or any other means to keep air circulation going.

What I did enjoy were two of the famous Chinese terracotta warriors which were on exhibit along with a lot of other Chinese artifacts which were wonderfully preserved and displayed. That section of the museum was air conditioned, I am sure the Chinese must have insisted so their exhibits stay in the condition that they were sent.

A feature I noticed most males seemed to enjoy, no not nude anythings there were none, was the numismatic section. That simply somehow translates into the museum's coin collection. It was interesting for a quick walk about to me but there were men gawping at coins as I would inside a Chanel window for the sighting of their latest handbag.

The highlight of my visit was the recently opened Jehangir Nicholson wing which houses a cross-section of modern Indian art. I have to say I was expecting a bit more then just air conditioning and the extra security from the exhibit, which was great, but I feel something was amiss or very predominantly lacking. Perhaps it was just the fact that I had worked myself up to expecting much, much more form the art on show.

Anyway so if you really are short on cash or you have people of various ages visiting from out of town and they expect culture, entertainment, experiencing Indian culture the museum is your best bet. If really your totally broke then the just walking the grounds and taking in the majesty of the building will make you feel rich in your experiences if not your wallet.

Thursday, 9 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: Finally a Salon that does not ....

Return to the 'Bay: Finally a Salon that does not ....: "Salons in Bombay as they are usually small and cramped, have very low or no standards of hygene and the staff is just untrained, uncouth and..."

Finally a Salon that does not ....

Salons in Bombay as they are usually small and cramped, have very low or no standards of hygene and the staff is just untrained, uncouth and incompetent. When you go to a salon in any other country (I have even been to one in Egypt) you are treated like a queen and the ambience and atmosphere is so relaxing or cool and funkey you want to linger there for ages.

My salon experiences in Bombay have been horrific. I have walked out of salons as their sterilisation facilities were just not upto the mark and the staff did not even know that you can get AIDS from a mini-pedi kit if its not sterilised properly! I have left less then a minute into a facial as my very highly recommended facialist had decided to eat a curry and onion based lunch 3 hours before I came in. The issue was not just something that could have been resolved with a stick of mint chewing gum as she had decided to eat her lunch the Indian way, with their hands!!! Apart from the hygene aspect just imagine the odiferous fingers being waived around your face for 45 miinuites!

I have also been burnt with tongs when having my hair strightened when pregnant which was very scary. And I have been burnt with hot wax meant for someone else's waxing session which just had to be ferried scorching hot across the room and spilled on me in the process.What really got me angry was the shoddy way in which I was apologised to. If I start to name and shame saloons in South Bombay I think I can go an and on and on. So I will only write about my top 3 preferences here. Do note that I did not attempt to go to the Taj, Oberoi or President Hotel's as I have a limited amount of time and did not want to waste time with security checks and the entire drama that goes along with it.

My first choice and really only all round recommendation is the mini heaven in the guise of the new Jean Claude Beginie salon off Colaba. I saw it from the street and walked in to see if the interiors were as nice form the outside. It did not disappoint. It was wonderfully decorated the ambiance was super and the inside was a neat freak's heaven. It was white and looked so clean it could have sparkled. All of the staff I came into contact with were articulate spoke great English, understood what I wanted and were really extremely gracious and obliging.

From the second I set foot in the salon I knew I was in the right place. The ladies who were at the counter were superbly groomed very well versed on the services the saloon offered, confident and very professional. I actually was able to converse with them and that convinced me to have a complete make-over there that very second. On entering most of the other salon's that are supposed to be "super" (which I would barely classify as decent) be prepared to be assaulted by bad mix of attitude, body oder and incompetence I for once am never enticed to even take an appointment let alone insist on an instant one.

As I was prepared to make a drastic change to my look I insisted on their top stylist. They told me she was totally booked but they understood that I needed a lot of guidance so they had a chat with her and she told them she would see me in 5 minutes. As soon as she finished with her clients with no drama Florence heard me out, sympathised with my concerns to dramatically alter my hair in every way and advised me what to do in a very professional manner. She vetoed the cut I wanted as it would not suit my face and the colour I wanted would do little for my skin tone. She also very graciously agreed to squeeze me in between two clients to cut my hair myself as she could feel my apprehension.

Now I had my 6 month old with my that day the staff was outstanding manuvering about her pram and they even took time out to entertain her. I was very pleased Divya the stylist who coloured my hair and also with Vinayak who gave me a nice paraffin mani-pedi. I was thrilled to discover a salon in Bombay with ergonomic seats which could be adjusted around the client. The fact that the chair also had a massage option for one's back was icing on the cake.

I have to say the most impressive thing about my cut was that before Florance began as busy as she was she waited for me to understand and agree to what she would do before proceeding. She did have to repeat herself twice not because of her French but because I was so very comfortable I zoned out. The fact Florance discussed aftercare in the form of tips on how to look after and style my hair was appreciated. I could not find fault with anything at all on any account at the Beguine salon and that something that does not happen often to me.

Some other options for anyone who does not want to go all the way to Colaba is to try the two more Beguine salons nestled somewhere in the suburbs. If that is not convenient then try Anees at the Moksh gym saloon on Breach Candy with a salon. He gives excellent cuts and does a very good colour. The one thing I can say for sure about Anees's cuts is that he has a magic touch all his haircuts grow our beautifully. He is really an artist at creating a hairstyle but had a tendency to cut hair shorter then one intends to go. The main drawback apart from getting an appointment with Anees as he is always booked, is that the salon he is with is miniscule. It is very, very small and I was not keen on their blow dry's or any other services.

Suzie at Touch of Joy is gives a decent cut and colour if you can put up with the fish market ambiance of the salon. Another thing about Touch of Joy is that you really need to know people who go there to guide you as to which stylist and therapist to go for what or you will end up with disasterous results.

A good place for a blowdry and wax is Beyond the Fringe its tucked away in Altermount Road across the standard Chartered ATM. I cannot remember the name of the man who used to do my hair or the girl who waxed my arms as it was over 6 months ago but I was happy with the service, and again do not expect too much from the salon per se.

Salon Des Amis is an option for those who are scattered around Napien Sea Road and Malabar Hill.It is a small mum and pop type place but far more expensive then the other little salons scattered in the area. The staff is warm and gracious and they are very competent at what they do. Khursheed who pops in there form time to time gives good cuts and does a great job with colour too.

The last place I care to mention in Bombay is a place in Worli called Sizzors over Comb that I had been to over a decade ago. One of the perks about it was parking right by the salon which is huge in Bombay. I do not know the saloon still exists. I recently admired a friend's hair and discovered Anu Yousef, who owned or still owns Sizzors over Comb cut it so that may be an option worth checking out.

Although I love my hair, nails and the new salon I discovered I missed having my hair done by the coolest hair personality in the world Ms. Josephene Sattout in all her Lebanese-Aussie awesomeness. I missed being spoiled and treated like a queen at her just opened the Pastels saloon in the Mercato Mall in Dubai. Josie thank you for teaching me what to expect from a saloon and how to just chill out and appreciate .... so this blog is dedicated for you...

Sunday, 5 June 2011

Return to the 'Bay: Sushi Therapy

Return to the 'Bay: Sushi Therapy: "Last week I was supposed to leave Bombay and return to where I came from. I was so happy and excited I had international roaming set up on m..."